In the realm of cosmetic science, the pursuit of sustainable practices has taken a promising turn with the integration of upcycled ingredients. This innovative approach involves repurposing waste and by-products from diverse industries to engineer novel components with enhanced value. The ensuing reduction in environmental impact aligns seamlessly with the principles of a circular economy.
Whilst there is no legal definition for what defines an ‘upcycled’ ingredient, the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association considers as “unwanted waste, that would otherwise be diverted to a fate that diminishes its value, such as landfill, animal feed, biofuel or compost. By repurposing it, the value of that material might be increased, and the use of a virgin resource becomes unnecessary.”
Some examples are:
Coffee Grounds
Fruit Pulp and Peels
Waste Oils
Flower Petals
Waste from Beer or Wine Production
Upcycled Algae
Waste from Nut Processing
The European Union's Waste Framework Directive provides crucial definitions and criteria, outlining when a material ceases to be waste and transforms into a product or raw material. Cosmetic ingredients derived from upcycled materials must adhere to these standards, taking into account their inclusion in ingredient annexes, safety requirements, and microbiological and production implications according to Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP).
It is imperative not to assume that an ingredient is inherently sustainable simply because it has been upcycled. A comprehensive understanding of the entire supply chain is crucial to ensure no environmental concerns or issues related to worker well-being.
Claims related to the environmental benefits of cosmetic products, including ingredient origin, must meet the same rigorous standards as other cosmetic claims, adhering to Article 20 of the EU Cosmetic Regulations, the Common Criteria on Cosmetic Claims Regulation, and the EU Unfair Commercial Practices Directive. These claims must be truthful and substantiated with robust evidence, considering the perspective of the averagely well-informed consumer.
Essential information to communicate includes:
the source of the upcycled component,
from what waste the ingredient has been diverted,
whether it has been processed and whether it is chemically changed since it was considered a ‘waste’ material,
whether to expect any natural variations in the final product colour or odour,
explain what an upcycling ingredient is.
As the cosmetic industry evolves, the scientific integration of upcycled ingredients stands as a testament to the commitment to sustainability. Through meticulous analysis and validation, these innovations not only meet cosmetic standards but also contribute substantively to the broader narrative of environmentally conscious and scientifically robust cosmetic science. The journey towards sustainable beauty is now intertwined with a scientific exploration of diverse and resourceful ingredients, paving the way for a greener and more responsible future in cosmetic formulations.
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